An Editorial on Wearing Real Fur in a New Age of Recycling

We’ve been seeing Kim Kardashian a lot in fashion news lately, and often surrounded by controversy. No matter what you think about Kim or her fashion escapades, such as wiggling into Marilyn Monroe’s “Happy Birthday, Mr. President” gown for the 2022 Met Gala, or acquiring Princess Diana’s amethyst cross at Sotheby’s for a cool $200K and then wearing it in a most questionable way, fact remains that this once oft-underestimated billionaire and SKIMS mogul is constantly challenging fashion conventions. Her latest statement is one that I actually endorse, and that is, wearing real fur.

And Kim’s not the only one with skins in the game. Madonna was also recently spotted wearing real fur, along with skads of other emerging celebs. Now before you get furious, hear me: I did not say “new” fur; I said “real” fur. Real vintage fur, that is. And repurposed furs, even moreso. They are my newest fixation.

There’s no denying the glamour and profound allure of fur, which dates back to ancient civilizations. Historically, primitive people have celebrated nature precisely by imitating it. Natural furs are inarguably stunning. There is nothing quite like real fur, especially wild fur as opposed to farmed fur. But let’s face it: fur is a cruel luxury.

However, fast fashion and faux fur are without a doubt a significant bane on the environment. Some say faux fur is worse for the planet than sourcing real fur! That being said, I just cannot get behind the cruelty of buying a new fur coat. But I do feel that vintage furs are an intelligent way to recycle, while honoring the animal as well as the beauty of vintage garments. And now, you’ve got an argument for wearing real (vintage and repurposed) fur!

Above is a recent snap of Madonna wearing a vintage Ann Demeulemeester fur coat, sold by Rellik, and “surrendered” by stylist and fashion editor, Karl Plewka.

“Last year I surrendered part of my archive to the wonderful Fiona at Rellik, including this Ann Demeulemeester men’s coat — a piece I’d owned since the early 1990s, and adored deeply,” he stated.

“The genius of Fiona lies in giving special pieces the next life they deserve, so imagine my surprise when I heard it had become Madonna’s new day coat. I won’t lie: there’s a real poignancy in letting go of things so freighted with memory. But then I think of my 13-year-old self, prancing around my bedroom to ‘Dress You Up,’ and the sheer incredulity of it all — that one day my idol and I might share something so tangible,” Karl continued. “Madonna, you wear it well,” he said.

I happen to have a large collection of furs and fur-trimmed apparel. It’s all vintage and I acquired a few of them shopping thrift or consignment, but most, I inherited from my mother and her mother, both style mavens, who, for a time many moons ago, owned a consignment store in Northern California called The Turnabout Shop.

And here, I’d like to further bolster my argument for wearing real vintage and repurposed fur by emphasizing how many vintage pelts are out there, lying in shops or lingering online, waiting to be rediscovered and worn in a new way, taking on a new life once again.

One of my very favorite pieces is from my grandmother Ruby’s closet. It’s a short capelet she wore in her youth when she would dress for church or an occasion, a 1950s black cropped shrug, lined with lush, wild black fox. I’ve worn this piece on repeat with fondness every single winter of my life since she passed in 2000. It’s effortless to wear, completely comfortable and expertly-constructed. The functionality is perfect and it remains shockingly gorgeous to this day, a 75-year-old garment, literally, breathtaking. The materials are unmatched and the wild fox is something you could not find in this day and age. Most farmed furs, for example, result in inferior pelts.

I’m sure my nana styled this piece quite differently than I. In fact, I can imagine her youthful imago, with that distinct hourglass figure of hers, walking tall in one of her famous fitted suits or impeccably-tailored dresses and matching stockings, with a hat and glove combo.

This was dressing of the past, for most. However, the shrug she wore decades ago is a piece of fashion history, meant to be worn, admired and remembered. Its lifespan clearly asserts that it is better (for you *and* for the environment) to have just one good thing as opposed to a bunch of disposable fast fashion. This cape is a powerful testament to the longevity and timelessness of a couture garment. Some things, like good writing and fine couture, never go out of style. More fashion forecasts and style musings later. Keep reading.